Developing with rodinal. Ilford XP2 400 in Agfa Rodinal 1+50.

Developing with rodinal Especially for Rodinal you have to keep the temperature when possible between 18-20C. I. The results were impressive. above: FPP edu 200 processed in Rodinal. John Hicks’ Recommendations for Kodak T-Max D-76 will develop both traditional and t-grained film without issue. The details are Rodinal 1+200, presoaked for 5 mins, room temperature(!), 30secs initial agitation and left for 2hrs, shot at 400. It is virtually indestructible, it can survive for I'm happy to provide more information, if you'd like. If you have any questions let me know, I'll try an answer them. Many report getting at least 50+ rolls from this quantity. I typically stand-develop in Rodinal 1+100 for one to two hours, depending on the film stock; for HP5+ my standard these days is 80 minutes, 40 gentle agitations over the first minute, zero or one agitation at the halfway point, and that's it. If you haven’t tried Ilford Delta 3200, you definitely need to. I rate the film at 400 as suggested on the box and stand develop with Rodinal 1-100 20 deg. Time. I generally use 1:100 for normal scene content. All of the examples I have shown were developed in Rodinal 1+50. HC-110 is better about uneven development for some reason. Frankenfilm have the perfect recipe for making your home-brew Rodinal. 5 minutes (or 6 minutes with continuous agitation). I would definitely recommend running a test film before you committing an important roll of film. Developing times in Rodinal for the most popular films when developed at box speed. A quick bonus fact for you. With Rodinal I always go 1+50 20c in my opinion it is one of the best dilutions in the film world. It’s been said repeatedly that developing black-and-white film yourself at home is much easier and cheaper than might be expected. Mix 16mL of Kodak stop bath solution with 1L of room temperature water. Recipes & dev times using Film Rollei Retro 80S Rollei Retro 80S in Agfa Rodinal 1:100. Frank Wolff. Foma Fomapan 100 in Agfa Rodinal 1:50. with 35mm film). Developing time is 11 minutes at 68 degrees (20C), Rodinal 1+50. I'm trying out different development times. Use as much developer as your tank will hold, not just enough to cover the film. As produced by AGFA, it is a clean developer admired by some for its "honest" grain. The negs were OK, but a little flat. Here is a comprehensive list of films with developed times using Rodinal. Rodinal is a very active developer where development time does not correspond very well with time. However, the grain prevails everywhere. I would use 1:50. What's the good dilution mix, development time at 20C, and - perhaps importantly - the agitation frequency? My previous experience was with TriX400 pushed at ISO 1600 with Rodinal 1+50 following Massive Dev Chart Iphone App suggestion. So with that in mind, you likely won’t be able to get this film I'm planning to develop it with Rodinal. 0°F. He described another technique for developing salted prints which seems to be "now almost unknown". Rodinal is the #1 developer used for this method because it less likely to cause bromide drag. -WWII version. I learned that grain comes from over-developing the film, not printing on contrasty paper. One roll 120 film (one reel in tank): 6ml per 600ml Rodinal to distilled water – Rodinal 1+100. Colour film is different from black and white film in that the emulsion side has dye coupler layers, which interact with the C41 developer to form dye clouds (that’s a bit of a simplified explanation, but you get the idea Stand development is a way to develop film using high dilutions of Rodinal, typically 1:100 for 1 hour or 1:200 for 2 hours. Using less than 18C is mentioned in early original Agfa documentation and helps keep grain moderate and even. Other manufacturers often use the name “R09” and its variations. Developers: HC-110, Rodinal, Ilford PQ Developer (this is a paper developer) Tank: 2 Roll and 5 Roll Paterson Development tank Temp: 30C (!) Here’s a photo shot with Ilford HP5+ 400 pushed to ISO 1600 stand developed in 500ml of 68F, 1:100 Rodinal for 2 hours. . (Baby RODINAL) 500 ml conc. I have been developing NEW TMY or TMY-2 also known as New Tmax400 in Rodinal. If you are looking for economical developing Kodak HC-110 is another long shelf life inexpensive developer. Massive Developing chart has a D96 developer option as well. Reply. Recently, I came across an experiment stand developing Kodak Tri-X. Expose print for 1/3 standard printing time 3. Paper sensitized with an emulsion formula with the addition of citric acid 2. My developing times from the modern stuff worked perfectly with the APH-09. 13 minutes at 20°C/68. For those who have K400 & Rodinal at hand and just want to shoot and develop without reading any further, this is it: K400@800, Rodinal 1:50, 62°F (close to 17°C), 40 minutes, 4 slow inversions in the beginning, 4 slow inversions every tenth minute (so, at minutes 10, 20 & I’ve been developing at home with this film for three years straight, and have learned a lot about working with it to get the best results. Rodinal displays different characteristics in it's development based on the ratio chosen 1. Rodinal Rodinal is the oldest commercial Agitation is problem with stand. The big issue with Rodinal, particularly at (1+50), is agitation. 1 hour (Stand developed) at 18°C/64. I shoot the film at EI-320. D-76 negs will tend to look rather 'smoother'. Directly comparing results of developing an entire roll of film at both 16-17 degrees and 20 degrees using these 1:200 and 1:400 Rodinal dilutions. In fact the patent for Rodinal dates back to 1891. Maybe I’m some sort of klutz who is best off using Rodinal :-). Finish as usual. 2-liter I tend to rate it at 80 and develop in Rodinal 1+25 for 6. Kodak TRI-X 400 – shot at EI 1600. Let’s have a look at EI 1600: TRI-X at EI 1600. Rodinal is the trade name of a black and white developing agent produced originally by the German company Agfa based on the chemical 4-aminophenol. FW’s Recommendations for Kodak T-Max 100. Dilution: 1+25 to 1+500. Also Tmax and Delta films are not the best combination with Rodinal. Light agitation first 30 seconds. The flat negs had low grain, and in any case, high-contrast paper produces less When I shot Tri-X I had great results exposing at ISO 200 and developing for 6 min in Rodinal 1:50 with 5 sec agitation per minute at 68F, and printing on #4 paper. This is a developer with a lot of history and has stood the test of time. I never extended my Rodinal agitation cycle more than 4 minutes because of uneven development. Stand Developing with Rodinal. Use Rodinal at 1 + 100, one sharp tap and one inversion then leave for one hour at about 20C. Then I bought a book SALT PRINT by Peter Mrhar. The results using Ilfotec LC29 Use of Rodinal. Dilution The quoted minimum quantity of Rodinal required to develop a single roll completely is 10mL of concentrate, however many report that it works fine with as little as 6mL. @ASA 400 • 5 minute water pre-soak. C for one hr. A quick comparison of my most used film developers. This is the Rodinal I use Adox Rodinal Film Developer - 500 ml I usually stand develop with it though, so 1:40 or 1:100 dilution. Those are Rodinal and HC-110. ISO 100 @ 50:1 for 8 min @ 20C 2. It delivers results that I find pleasing to the eye. Benjamin Registered Snoozer. The current manufacturer of Rodinal recommends 14 min in 1+50 for Tri-X shot at 400. If you’re looking to create negatives with It goes a long way to even out development. RODINAL. g Rodinal stand development is very nice also. What is the difference between film developer dilutions? The different dilutions can create different looks. I use both HC-110 and Rodinal for developing. 2 slow turns per minute. I tried stand developing in Rodinal 1:100 for 90 minutes with two turns after 45 minutes. One of the reasons that Rodinal is so successful with stand-development is because you cannot get bromide drag with Rodinal unlike almost all other developer including Rodinal clones. One of my favorite Donavan Well if you shot it at E. Developed with Rodinal Developed with Rodinal. Using this developing method is my favorite way and works with every film I have tried to develop in it. David Griffen on Development Notes: Ilford I have ben experimenting with Rodinal and Ilford HP5 +. While it’s true one needs to be prepared to have experiments fail – it’s also true that when they succeed, it can introduce a Donavan Well if you shot it at E. Pour in, agitate for a while then leave. Depending on what film format I am shooting I will use Xtol-Rodinal mix or 1:100 Rodinal semi-stand developing. Fill the tank with water and presoak your film get the tank and water in it down to 20C I put min in the frig along with the mixed developer. by John Crane | May 3, 2018 | Film Processing, Technical, Technical Features. This shot is exceedingly sharp thanks to the lens, and stand development process. Continuous agitation first 60s, then 5s every minute By siemacotam on 01 Tri-X in Rodinal is a fabulous combination. We have known for years that the color or optical density of Rodinal has little or no bearing on its activity. Each time a film is developed, a new batch is mixed, typically at a ratio of 1:25 to 1:100. Most shooters seem to settle on one film and one developer and hone their skill in using them to razor sharpness. and ISO When push processing black and white film I normally try to stick to a stand development with Rodinal at 1:50, or even using a highly diluted concentration of Kodak’s own HC-110. I usually develop semi-stand in Rodinal at 100:1 for one hour generally at 17-19 degC, with two inversions at half-time, when it acts as a compensating developer (heavily exposed areas run out of developer so development stops automatically) restraining contrast. It is grainier than you would get with D-76 or DDX, but very sharp I don’t often go to Petapixel, but this article proves the point, a photographer cracked a bottle of 100-year-old Rodinal and successfully used the stuff to develop a roll of film. Compared to R09/APH09 Rodinal is more fine-grained, while still enhancing sharpness and acutance. Developing C-41 colour film in Rodinal. Jul 7, 2009 #8 Thanks for the links, I have read them before, though both obviously offer no information in regard to stand development, being that it's hardly a conventional process for such a developer. My results have generally been very good. Besides this effect, Rodinal, or Adonal, is also known for its extraordinarily long shelf life and its high-concentration, one-shot design that calls for dilutions between 1:25 for typical use all the way up to 1:100 or even 1:200 for stand development. Tempted to try Rodinal, as that is a really punchy developer, but in 35 probably not good for grain. Using Rodinal, a 1+25 dilution will develop the film faster, and with more contrast than a 1+50 dilution. In practice, T-Grains can be a little bit finicky to develop, so some care is necessary to ensure proper development with this film. It also is very good at adjusting the contrast of the negative, is still very active with high dilutions-1:100 to 1:200. Stand development with D-76. Me doing some C41 film developing at home yesterday. This was my first time stand de Again, I use 500 ml for either developing 1 120 rolls or 2×35 mm rolls and 1,000 ml for developing either 3×35 mm rolls or 2×120 rolls or 1×35 mm and 1×120 – all in the same tank. Futurinô: I've developed some color films in Rodinal and I've discovered the best developing time is: Presoak 5min 20ºC Rodinal 1:50 dilution 10/11 minutes 5sec move each 90sec Stop 1min Fixer 3min (some films need 5 to 7) Wash This worked out good with: Konica VX400 Konica Centuria 100 Kodak Potra 160NC Kodak Proimage 100 Fuji Superia 800 Fuji Sensia C41 Film Developing at Home. November 17, 2023 at 2:07 pm. Link your film developing recipes to your Flickr photos Agfa Rodinal. Developing five rolls of film in my 1. Kodak D-76 is not a typical developer to be used for stand development, with Rodinal developer being most often used for this purpose. For our first stand development, we will use the developer Rodinal. Bromide drag is the accumulation of bromide, a byproduct of the development of the film that causes streaks and uneven development when the bromide streaks down from sprocket holes. I have re-used mixed Ilford DD-X at least five times within a two-month period with no diminishment in quality. Final thoughts. k. Rodinal. I now shoot it at 400 and develop with (1+50) for 13 minutes at 68º F. It gave me a flat, low-grain negative that printed beautifully on the high-contrast paper. Up to now have been making traditional Salt prints. As developers go, Rodinal is both easy to handle and stable in liquid concentrate. Local time 10:16 AM Joined Jun 8, 2008 Messages 591. This development sheet was developed for use with Tri-X film, but should prove effective for most films. Rodinal – One of my specialty developers is Rodinal, in terms of actual usage is perhaps one of the most versatile developers made. Exploring the Stand Film Development Process. Ilford XP2 400 in Agfa Rodinal 1+50. E. There’s no film that creates that I discovered that I could expose at ISO 200, develop in Rodinal 1:50 for 6 min. 5ml (teaspoon) of Borax. Exposure. 9 minutes at 20°C/68. [1] Rodinal is a popular high acutance black and white developer and is used at different dilutions for development in rotary machines, by agitation, as well as for stand development. Rodinal and Adonal are the ID-11, same formula as D-76 Black, White, and Green by Flic Film HC-110 Cawanol Professional DD-X Rodinal (a. Gentle turns for the first 30 seconds. One roll 35mm film (two reels in tank): 5ml per 500ml Rodinal to distilled water – Rodinal 1+100. Dilution. Ilford XP2 400 at 320 in Agfa Rodinal 1:100. Also to keep the grain low but also for this type of problem which you have now. Was kind of cool to be Link your film developing recipes to your Flickr photos Agfa Rodinal. that's 4ml/200ml to fully cover 35mm, 6/600 to cover 120. That said I've been playing with catechol based staining developer, that's higher resolving. Why C41 Portra in B&W? Hi, I did my first rolls of 120 film and 135 film (both Neopan 400) developed in Rodinal 1+200 stand development and I have a problem. Diane - 1ml rodinal to 100ml water. For stand development with Ilfotec LC29, I have been using the same dilutions as with Rodinal: diluting it 1+100 for most films with a normal contrast curve, and developing for one hour; for higher contrast emulsions I have been using 1+120, 1+150 or 1+200 with the Kodak High Resolution Aerial Duplicating film. Rodinal recommends using no less than 5mL of developer (I've seen people say less. The negs were flat, like LOG video files, and printed beautifully on grade 4 paper with a lovely full range of tones from deep black to sparkling whites. This latest attempt was with a 1: Thus I would have some control over contrast hopefully better than with chemistry. The photographer shoots the same scene at box speed (ISO 400), 800, 1600, and 3200. Re-Use One Shot Developers. By area51delcorazon on 30 August 2024. Preparation. Fill the tank with water For clarity on the above, if developing two HP5+ rolls exposed at their box speed EI400, I’ll use 8ml of Rodinal, agitation as above. The choice of using 1+25 is mainly because I use a Paterson Orbital tank for developing sheet film. Immersed and develop in a 1% solution of This set of negatives was pushed to ISO 800 using Rodinal using a stand development process. Which developers can push Kentmere 100 to ISO 800? On the Massive Dev Chart, there are only two chemicals that will push Kentmere 100 as far as ISO 800. Mix 1L of 1+4 Ilford Rapid Rodinal uses potassium hydroxide as the accelerator and p-aminophenol as the sole developing aent. A sealed bottle will last a long time, but it does not last indefinitely. For our database we assume Rodinal follows a fairly simple recipe (so simple that some actually do make “RoDIYnal” themselves at home), relying mainly on para-aminophenol as its developing agent. No pre soak 1 Hour stand development @ 18DegC - 3 agitations Stop 60 secs By * Daniel * on 11 September 2018. My best results have been with 50+1 for 10 minutes and then in completing development by adding a second bath of 500 ml water with 5. Most begin with 5mL of Rodinal at 1+100 ratios and soup the film for an hour. The result I get is not good, highlight is too much blown out, e. Actually under these co Rodinal 1+100 stand 1 hour; ID11 stock solution 14 minutes-and an interesting version of two bath processing -see below. With local camera stores quickly closing it is becoming harder and harder to develop films and if you care to take the adventurous DIY path the folks at Dr. The entire roll is developed in Rodinal diluted to 1:100 for an hour—he only agitates for 30 seconds at the beginning and for a second after 30 minutes. Rodinal: ADOX Adonal/Rodinal: Agfa Rodinal R09 New One Shot: ADOX Atomal 49: Agfa Atomal A49 Argenti A-49 Bergger BER-49 Calbe A49 ORWO A49: ADOX FX-39: Paterson FX-39: Tetenal stated that this developer is ‘compatible’ with AGFA Rodinal, but the developing times differ very much, especially for dilution 1+50. A unique feature of Rodinal is that it works as a “one-shot” developer. RODINAL is a one-shot developer and can not be re-used 2 stops push with rodinal 1+25 looks kinda gross imo (especially the grain), I've done it a few times because I wanted scans immediately after a night out but I think 1+100 and stand development is much nicer, much better shadow detail r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring My current plan is to go back to Kodak Xtol 1:3 or 1:4 dilutions and use Rodinal too. Link your film developing recipes to your Flickr photos Start sharing your recipes now. There is now Adox Rodinal, and while I've been in contact with ADOX they won't comment on any other manufacturer's versions. A particular danger of stand development with Rodinal and some films is bromide drag, which can cause streaks in the image originating at highlights. Despite its credentials, I Developing an entire roll of film (not just half) using the 1:200 and 1:400 Rodinal dilultions (2 and 4 hours respectively) to see if the final results vary by any measure. I also use more developer mixture Black-and-White Film Development for Lazy People: Part 1: Rodinal stand development. I will be developing all my B&W films in the good old fashion way with Rodinal. If you don't depend on development by inspection, 1:25 works pretty well. have you ever wondered if you can develop with rodinal, but not dilute it?00:00 what is rodinal?00:49 gameplan01:09 1+10001:19 1+5001:32 1+2502:22 1+1602:51 I recently developed Catlabs 320 shot at ISO 320 in Rodinal 25:1 dilution with constatant CW and CCW rotation for 9 minutes @ 20 degrees C. I thus opted to try a semi-stand development technique, where I let the film sit for an hour and a quarter, gently agitating and tapping the tank every quarter hour; I’m paranoid about air Rodinal will tend to produce rather sharp, relatively grainy negs, while D-76 will give you significantly less grain at the cost of perhaps less sharpness. If you don't do it you get uneven development, if you do it you will not get compensation and maybe over development. For two rolls of HP5 PLUS exposed at EI 800, I’ll use 13-15ml of Rodinal, agitate as above Plus, developing colour film in Rodinal gives you a unique look – not quite like anything else. Developer. You can read more about Rodinal and the stand development process here. Read this tipster and learn exactly how you can do it. Credits: keefmarshall. These developers are usually based on the old pre-WWII formula — Rodinal formula number 9. Having cut my photographic teeth in an era when film was the only option (OK, I could have used glass plates or tintypes!) XP2 @EI Developer Exception to the Rule: When doing stand development with Rodinal, developing the chemical to exhaustion is the goal. One of the oldest black and white developing solutions is called Rodinal. Here are the developing times and films speeds I use: Tmax 100: EI-50 11 minutes at 68 In a range iso 25-200 you will get the best results. Not only is it safer for your home, it’s also safer for the environment. I’ve written about Rodinal developing in the past if you want more info. These examples were shot on 120 film in a Mamiya 6, but I have used it in 35mm too. One of my biggest complaints was the fact that it would get very dark, so you could hardly judge the development, but would still work. I just add quick subtitles to explain the difference sequences, you can ask for details if you want. 1:50. 1. It also shows off what a film can do; it doesn’t add or subtract sharpness or grain, and there is no real change to the contrast. One typically uses 1+50 or 1+100 (or even more dilution) and lets the film "soup" in it for an hour (or more). However, it is Developing times for Kodak T-Max 100. I have continued to develop my own films, whether B&W, colour negative or reversal. I find stand developing with Rodinal a good choice for films that may have been used in a difficult metering scene or when simultaneously developing various film types with different speeds in the same tank. Mix 10mL of Rodinal with 1L of room temperature water. I like the results better with 120 and 4x5" than with 35mm though. Instructions are for 2 rolls of film. Rodinal – 6 ml + 494 ml water or 10 ml + 990 ml water – 30+30 (minutes) with 10-second stir at the start and midpoint I shoot Tri-X planned to be processed in Rodinal at 200 and develop for around 11-12 min in Rodinal 1+50 at around 18C or just under. I’m not Have you tried it?Rodinal (now sold as Adox Adonal or Bellini RDL), the longest manufactured developer in the world! Well over 100 years of use and there's a Monochrome Madness: Rodinal Stand Developing 7 16 Share Tweet. a Blazinal in Canada, or Adonal in Europe) Click the images to view them fullscreen. Since the 1890’s Hello my Friends! In this tutorial video i show you how to develop and push Black and White film in Adonal/Rodinal Film Developer. Personally, I spin-agitate mine for a bit at 30min (semi-stand). 400 your best bet with Rodinal is 1-100 Full stand development it will tame the highlights develop the shadows and keep the grain down. for development, i have been using three different types of developers (one at a time) with some degree of success. The ID11 stock development seems to be very good at rendering these bright areas, so perhaps that would be the choice for Another issue with stand developing is bromide drag. This HP5 review is going to go over a number of development strategies that I’ve used to get great results. It’s a technique I’ve become very fond of using, so I thought I’d share it with you all. 2 turns at 30'. And additionally the danger of bromide stripes (esp. I've used Xtol replenished which is similar to 1+1, on some films it is the same resolution/detail level as Rodinal 1+25 but finer grain, and ahead of 1+100 stand developing. Temperature. While D-76 is only available in 1-gallon sizes, ID-11 you can get in 1-litre quantities and larger. Get inspired to try it yourself! If you are looking for a film developing guide you might prefer my more detailed how to develop film I have used stand development with Rodinal successfully in the past, it's probably the safest option without the problem of choosing the correct time. I then just rinse with clean water for about 60 - 90s, and fix for 10 minutes. I would like to try Acros II in Rodinal now. Traditionally stand-developing is done using a highly-dilute working solution of a black & white developer and a minimal amount of agitation over a long period. View My Gallery. It's a developing problem. Fresh concentrates of these developers may have different colors: R09 is usually less See more Regular readers will know I develop my black and white film at home using the Rodinal (R09 One Shot) semi-stand development method using times less than one hour. Due to its high concentration, a small amount of Rodinal can Stand development in Rodinal brought me to a state of bliss, shooting in near-darkness, but a more “normal” processing recipe with Rodinal may have just knocked Diafine off its perch as my go-to goop for pushing Tri He developed in Rodinal at 1+25 for 12 minutes 30seconds at 20°c. My final recommendation is a controversial one: re-use one shot developers. Rodinal: 6,400 (+4 stops) 1+50, 52 min, continuous agitation: X-Tol: 6,400 (+4 stops) No Developing with traditional chemicals, well, you’re inviting chemicals into your home which can be troublesome for those with children and pets. It’s cheap. I recently took on a test to see which developer produced the best results. Some like this; others don’t. I mainly use Rodinal at 1+100 (for a 120 film). Chart recommends : 1. You started with Rodinal 1+50 on 27C which is much to warm for a Rodinal development. He exposed for the shadows, which had the effect of a lighter overall frame with a lot of detail throughout. You may well get bromide drag with R09 when stand-developing. Rodinal is my favourite developer and you can develop almost anything in it. Rodinal is a product from the former Agfa photochemical plant in Vaihingen-Enz, Germany. It reflects my experience of Double-X and the choice between D-76 and Rodinal. I personally do not practice this development process with D Dear Azriel Thank you for this article. There's little really to do except advise you to experiment. Especially on overcast days when excessive contrast is not a problem. 1 hour (Stand developed) at 20°C/68. - Stand development with Rodinal is not recommended: Grain is coarser, resolution lower (due to swelling) compared to standard development. Massive Dev. Therefore you have uneven development. Rodinal is a developer that was first introduced in the 1890’s, so it’s got quite a proven track record and is known for having an extended shelf life. Hence the use of the word ‘stand’ although I feel it has more to do with the amount of standing around that you do This technique is called stand development. The more common approach is ‘Rodinal stand development‘ for a Rodinal has been my primary black and white developer for decades. 4°F. 1+100 Rodinal Development. While stand developing in high dilutions of Rodinal minimises the risk of streaking defects, the idea of my film sat still for too long unsettled me. It is often said that Rodinal is insensitive to temperature at this dilution, and I usually develop semi-stand in Rodinal at 100:1 for one hour generally at 17-19 degC, with two inversions at half-time, when it acts as a compensating developer (heavily exposed areas run out of developer so Link your film developing recipes to your Flickr photos Agfa Rodinal. I then tried 11 minutes 30 seconds with a 1:25 dilution and agitation every 30 seconds, those came out nice and contrasty, but a bit grainy. The tank takes a very low volume of developer (or you get spillage or I'm adding this to this tread because it has something to do with semi-stand development and Rodinal. Also you get very uneven development with big density differences across the negative (easy measurable with a densitometer). I leave for 30mins[ish] then another 30mins on top. with 5/30 agitation at 68F. Checkout the video Here is a 1mn30s full session video of C41 stand-dev developing with the black and white Adox Rodinal developer. Rodinal takes most of the magenta anti-halation dye out anyway. Confectioning: 100 ml conc. Foma Fomapan 200 in Agfa Rodinal 1+50. Rodinal is a developer everyone should try at least once, and try in several different ways Blazinal is perhaps the coolest name for a Rodinal clone. Likewise, I would use 1:200 for low key as there is much less development. I bought some a couple yrs ago to try, but saw no real difference between it and the modern formula. kr/p/2j8KQXX When I began to The results for me using Rodinal development seems always wonderful. It contains very little sulfite in the working dilutions. D-76 exploits very well the potential of the film for my taste: https://flic. Rodinal will also work great for pulling when you’re looking for a large grain structure. It stores forever. Interesting thing is that all three were developed at the same development time and dilution. For higher key, you would need a higher concentration as there is more film surface to develop. Develop with slow agitation and a temperature <= 20 degrees C to keep the grain as small as possible. If you have used Agfa Rodinal* before you can achieve identical results with ADOX RODINAL. 2) hi key / low key / normal. Thus, strictly speaking, R09 is not identical to the Agfa/Adox Rodinal. One of the great joys of shooting and developing one’s own film is the ability to tweak and experiment. 2. azzaf wvfvxj ntnc zjmw ryxsrcm pbjre uxcbyl fri kxiah sqnbi dauuj pidnop qmti efm fsjxmc